Liberté, fraternité, luxurité: the failed rise of luxury for all

Luxury brands have opened their world to more people, but are failing to deliver on the experience, writes The Mix Global's Andres Villa

We live in an era where luxury isn’t confined to the elite anymore. Brands have stretched their allure into realms previously untouched, tempting the so-called “aspirational consumers”—ordinary people who occasionally dive into the luxe world.

McKinsey's latest report reveals that these aspirational buyers account for a staggering 50% of global luxury sales. They are, simply put, the backbone of the luxury industry’s revenue.

However, despite this significant contribution, the industry remains fixated on catering to its wealthiest clients—the top 2%, those who are already deeply invested in luxury. A recent report from Bain & Company underscores that the global personal luxury goods market reached €362 billion (£304bn) in 2023.

Yet, most of that growth came from aspirational and new affluent consumers: those who are testing the waters of luxury, rather than swimming in it for decades.

Case in point: A friend of mine, thrilled to make her first Gucci purchase, walked into their flagship store in London, only to be snubbed by the staff. Why? Because her purchase wasn’t “important enough.” Another client, let’s call him Alan, described his frustrations with Dior after buying a pair of sunglasses with a manufacturing defect. After exchanging them twice and receiving yet another defective pair, Dior refused to guarantee a perfect one. "It felt like they didn’t care at all – and this is Dior!". Where is the excellence, Dior?

These stories are just the tip of the iceberg. From faulty products to indifferent sales teams, it seems as though luxury brands have forgotten their very essence.

My own experience with Longchamp was no different. A bag, ordered online, arrived not only riddled with defects but also sporting a “Made in China” label. There’s the rub: luxury isn’t just about the product, it’s about the story, the culture, the craftsmanship embedded in its creation. As internationally renowned luxury branding expert Jean-Noël Kapferer aptly said: “When someone buys a luxury item, they are buying a product steeped in a culture or in a country.” That deep-rooted connection to its origins is what gives it value.

So, are we still buying luxury, or are we being sold an empty myth?

Have we crossed into a time where brands now chase production numbers and profits at the expense of authenticity and quality? The growing disdain for entry-level luxury items suggests the answer is yes. According to recent consumer sentiment data from Altagamma, only 44% of luxury consumers are truly satisfied with their overall experience and feel it was above expectations.

Remember what Guillaume de Seynes of Comité Colbert once said: “A luxury good is something that can be repaired.” Not just used, flaunted, and discarded. And Denis Darpy, another luxury expert, added another layer to this understanding—luxury is about experience, exception, excess, and excellence. Let’s break this down.

Experience. The very act of buying a luxury product should feel like a once-in-a-lifetime moment. Exceptional service, human connection, and a memorable experience are non-negotiable. You’re not just purchasing a handbag, a watch, or a fragrance—you’re buying a story, a moment of joy.

When it’s well done, it pays off: take Ruby, when she went to buy a Louis Vuitton wallet, the sales representative’s attentiveness and effort made her feel as if she was making an important investment, saying, "They let me touch everything, answered every question. That’s how it should be." Yet, time and again, consumers walk into stores only to feel judged, ignored, or, worse, rushed through an uninspired transaction.

Exception. True luxury is about standing apart from the crowd, offering something that no one else can. Whether it’s a rare product or a distinctive service, there should be no comparison.

Excess. Surprising the customer, going beyond their expectations: that’s what makes an experience extraordinary. But we’ve all heard horror stories. Take the viral incident where a woman in China, tired of poor service at a Louis Vuitton store, made staff count over 600,000 yuan (around £64,000) in cash, then left without buying anything. Revenge and humiliation from the customers is the opposite of excess, it shows how far below the expectations their experience had gone.

Excellence. At the core of every luxury brand should be an unwavering commitment to quality. When brands cut corners and let faulty products slip through, they betray the trust of their customers. A Birkin bag isn’t just expensive because of the name—it’s because of the meticulous craftsmanship, the heritage. That’s luxury. Has the industry forgotten this? One shopper I spoke to shared his disappointment when purchasing a Balenciaga product: “It was expensive, but the quality wasn’t there. It just didn’t feel right, and I felt cheated.”

Aspiring luxury consumers are savvy. They know when they’re being sold a watered-down version of the real thing. And if brands continue on this path, they risk alienating the very people who will soon be their most loyal—and potentially wealthy—clients.

We’re seeing luxury brands slowly morph into mere factories, churning out low-quality items that bear the logos of once-great names.

The allure of luxury’s democratisation was seductive. But in their rush to open the gates, brands are sacrificing their soul.

Here’s the truth: it doesn’t matter whether you’re buying Dior Haute Couture or a Dior fragrance. You should feel like you’ve entered the same world of luxury. The price tag may change, but the experience and the commitment to quality should never waver. The democratisation of luxury should not mean its dilution.

Luxury’s appeal lies in its promise. Break that promise, and you’ve shattered the very foundation of what keeps customers coming back. We’re at a crossroads, and brands must choose: continue down the path of mediocrity, or rediscover the magic that makes luxury, well, luxurious.

Because in the end, those aspirational customers you’re neglecting today? They’re the same ones who, a few years from now, will either be your biggest advocates—or your harshest critics. And trust me, they’ll remember which brands kept their promise from the very beginning.